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Understanding

swash and beach hydrodynamics

the influence of beach morphology on the alongshore variance in wave run-up on an intermediate reflective beach, considering bars and cusps

 

 

The East South Korean coast is retreating. Wave run-up is a process which is involved in erosion of the coast. Different studies have previously been performed to get insight in run-up, but little is known about the alongshore variability in wave run-up with alongshore varying bathymetries. Alongshore variability in wave run-up does influence the prediction of wave run-up. If more knowledge is gained about which parameters influence the wave run-up with respect to the alongshore variability, then the predictions of wave run-up are more accurate.

 

This lack of knowledge is especially the case when the beach morphology consists of rhythmic bars and beach cusps. There are no relations found between the dimensions of the bars/cusps and the prediction of wave run-up. Beside the dimensions of the bar and cusps in the beach morphology, it is also not known in detail if there are strong correlations between different parameters and the alongshore variability in wave run-up.

 

If knowledge is gained in the relation between beach morphology, considering beach cusps and offshore bar, and the wave run-up than it could provide scientific relations. With these scientific relations a better prediction can be made for wave run-up. If a more accurate prediction is made of wave run-up, it could enhance designs from an engineering point of view.

 

In this MSc thesis the research is based on the question if beach morphology, to be specific bars and offshore cusps, do affect the alongshore averaged wave run-up. Next to this, a research will be done to different parameters to investigate whether these are related to the alongshore variance in wave run-up.<image>
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Info:

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Metadata list
|| Name | Bas van Luit  ||
|| Email | Bas.vanLuit@Deltares.nl ||
|| Room | <room >|
|| Software package | XBeach non hydrostatic |
|| Start Date | February 2017|
|| Specialisation Programme | Hydraulic engineering - coastal engineering|
|| Deltares supervisor | Robert McCall |
|| TU Delft supervisor | Ad Reniers |